Historic Chinese Beauty Brand Dai Chunlin Fined for Regulatory Violations

Another heritage beauty brand has run afoul of China's strict cosmetic safety regulations.

Yangzhou Dai Chunlin Cosmetics Co., Ltd., the parent company of the historic Chinese beauty brand Dai Chunlin, was recently fined 280,200 RMB (~$38,600 USD) and had 25,500 RMB (~$3,500 USD) worth of illegal products confiscated by the Jiangsu Provincial Drug Administration. The total penalty exceeded 300,000 RMB (~$42,100 USD) for failing to comply with technical safety standards for raw materials.

Why it matters: China's strict Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR) spares no one—not even centuries-old cultural icons. As domestic heritage brands leverage national pride to fuel digital sales, they face a steep learning curve in aligning traditional manufacturing methods with modern safety and ingredient compliance.

According to the official filing, the company violated Article 30, Paragraph 1 of China's Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR). The penalty was handed down under Article 60, Paragraph 1 of CSAR and Article 28, Paragraph 1 of the Administrative Penalty Law.

This is not the brand's first regulatory hurdle. In March 2021, the Jiangsu Provincial Drug Administration flagged Dai Chunlin's "Phoenix Liquid" cleansing essence (batch number 20200819) for excessive microbial colony counts, landing the brand on the official non-compliance list.

Public records show that Yangzhou Dai Chunlin Cosmetics Co., Ltd. was established in its modern corporate form in 2009, led by legal representative Mu Qing. The company handles R&D, manufacturing, and sales, carrying forward the historic brand's classic product lines, including its famous "duck egg" face powders and traditional solid perfumes.

The brand's history is legendary. Founded in 1628 during the Ming Dynasty, Dai Chunlin is widely recognized as China's first recorded cosmetics brand. Its original shop sign was hand-carved by the famous Ming Dynasty calligrapher Dong Qichang. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the brand's proprietary "three-dye, three-method" powder-making technique produced scented face powders that became exclusive tributes to the imperial court. By the early 20th century, the brand had expanded to dozens of branches across Shanghai.

Despite its rich history, the brand faded from the market for decades before being revived under modern corporate management in 2009. Over the past 15 years, the brand steadily rebuilt its reputation. It was officially designated a "Yangzhou Time-Honored Brand" (Laozihao) in 2018, and its traditional powder-making technique was inscribed on the municipal intangible cultural heritage list in 2024.

In recent years, Dai Chunlin capitalized on the "Guochao" (China-chic) trend, which celebrates domestic heritage and cultural pride. The brand experienced a massive online resurgence. During a viral social media campaign supporting domestic heritage brands in September 2023, Dai Chunlin gained over 767,000 followers in a single month, pushing its flagship store past the one-million-follower mark and doubling its livestream sales.

However, this rapid growth has exposed underlying operational vulnerabilities. From microbial contamination to raw material non-compliance, the brand has faced two major quality issues in five years. This highlights a broader systemic challenge for historic Chinese beauty brands trying to modernize.

First, there is an inherent tension between "heritage" and "modern regulation." Many historic brands market themselves on "ancient formulas" and "secret recipes." However, traditional methods cannot bypass modern safety standards. Every ingredient and manufacturing process must strictly comply with current regulatory frameworks.

Second, brands face the challenge of converting viral traffic into long-term customer retention. While social commerce and livestreaming can drive overnight sales spikes, that traffic is highly volatile. A single quality scandal can instantly wipe out decades of built-up brand equity. While modern digital strategies can launch a brand into the spotlight—such as when Chinese actress Zhao Lusi launched her niche beauty brand ROSE AMIGO to instantly capture young consumers—sustaining that momentum requires flawless execution and strict quality control.

For heritage brands like Dai Chunlin, a centuries-old reputation is an invaluable asset, but it cannot be taken for granted. To survive in the modern era, these brands must prioritize regulatory compliance and product safety above all else. Without a foundation of quality, even the deepest historical legacy will eventually be eroded by regulatory penalties and consumer distrust.